{"id":1137,"date":"2017-12-06T06:00:08","date_gmt":"2017-12-06T06:00:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/insider.utelier.com\/?post_type=toolkit&p=1137"},"modified":"2019-07-16T08:42:33","modified_gmt":"2019-07-16T07:42:33","slug":"finding-a-pattern-cutter","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fashioninsiders.co\/toolkit\/how-to\/finding-a-pattern-cutter\/","title":{"rendered":"Finding a Pattern Cutter can be easy if you know what to look for"},"content":{"rendered":"
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The fashion industry produces a vast array of different products. These include, but are not limited to, trousers and skirts, evening dresses, tailoring, coating, and shirting. Underwear is also part of the equation, and let\u2019s not forget the accessories market that includes footwear and handbags. Just as there are different types of items, there are also different types of pattern cutters. As a new brand keen to get your creations turned into a blueprint for your designs, finding a pattern cutter that is right for your particular needs is easy if you only know what to look for.<\/p>\n
Finding a pattern cutter as a newcomer to the industry can be difficult. Many often make the mistake of looking for any pattern cutter, assuming they can all do everything.<\/p>\n
That misunderstanding often leads to painful and expensive lessons. It is important to understand from the outset that pattern cutters are not “jacks of all trades.”<\/p>\n
Instead,\u00a0 pattern cutters are trained to specialize in different areas within the fashion industry.<\/p>\n
Should you find one that claims they can do absolutely everything \u2013 be wary.\u00a0 It would be safe to assume in such a situation that they have not specialized in any particular area. Working with such a person could mean that your patterns are not as accurate as they could be, are not delivered on time or not delivered at all.<\/p>\n
However, it should also be noted that some clothing pattern cutters can produce patterns for soft-structured handbags. It\u2019s important to check a pattern cutter’s credentials before hiring them. The best way to do this is to ask for a client list or a CV. Some cutters will have a portfolio and client testimonials on their website, so be certain to check these out thoroughly.<\/p>\n
A womenswear pattern cutter should be able to create patterns by applying two traditional methods used within the industry.<\/p>\n
Draping\u00a0originated around 3500BCE and was a process that was originally used to transform a flat clothing design into a 3-dimensional form. It\u2019s a method that lays bias-cut fabric onto a mannequin. The fabric is then pinned into place after shaping to fit. Design lines are then drawn onto the fabric prior to its removal from the stand. The shapes are then laid onto pattern paper and transferred.<\/p>\n
The second method, called flat pattern cutting or creative pattern cutting, is a more contemporary method. It\u2019s a more precise method and much faster than draping, but it’s possible to combine both patterns cutting methods in one garment.<\/p>\n
For instance, jacket collars can be created successfully with the draping method.<\/p>\n
To create patterns on the flat, the pattern cutter will have developed a set of block patterns. These are basic templates devoid of any design details. They will include darts, for fit, but any fancier details will be added after the blocks have been traced onto pattern cutting paper. The blocks will never be cut up as they will be used time and time again to create new designs. Equipment used will include set squares, a pattern master, a plastic ruler, pencil and paper cutting scissors.<\/p>\n
Finding a pattern cutter who specializes in tailoring is important, as the knowledge and experience in tailoring processes and techniques such a professional can make or break the end result. These processes are very different to the ones that are applied to separates.<\/p>\n
For example, a tailored jacket will have many different layers and elements that create structure and shape and all of these garment sections will require a particular pattern. The reinforcements that are used to shape tailored jackets include horsehair and canvas. These reinforcements require pattern pieces for the different areas of the jacket. These areas include the sleeve head and hem area, underarms, front and back panels, lapels, collar and under-collar.<\/p>\n