Pattern Grading for different Markets<\/span><\/h3>\nWomenswear<\/h4>\n
When designing for this market sector, a bespoke grading rule system is preferred. \u00a0The main aspects to take into account are the consumer profile (age range, garment usage, and style preferences) and the placement of your brand in the current market.<\/p>\n
Selecting and manipulating the size range is also particularly important for graders of womenswear as it can have a dramatic effect on its perception and therefore the number of sales.<\/p>\n
For example, selecting a size range with a bias towards small or large can be advantageous in different market sectors. Also, the trend for vanity sizing amongst competing brands can be particularly profitable if executed within a bespoke grading system.<\/span><\/p>\nMenswear<\/h4>\n
Typically the sizes used are 34, 36, 38, \u202660, or S, M, L\u2026XXXL. <\/span><\/p>\nWhich type of sizing system is best will be determined by the type of garment. <\/span><\/p>\nThe identity of the customer and where the brand is situated in the market are also contributing factors for deciding the measurements used in the base size pattern. <\/span><\/p>\nThe two most important measurements graders consider are stature (ratio between chest and waist) and height (short, regular, or long). <\/span><\/p>\nResearch shows that men are less likely to try on garments before purchasing them. <\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\nBespoke grading means that you can design increments to maximise your exposure across the sizing spectrum and secondly, closely align yourself with the sizes used by your competitors. \u00a0Your consumer will be able to successfully select a size that fits thus reducing the number of returns.<\/span><\/p>\nSportswear<\/h4>\n
The base size pattern should already contain enough allowances to allow ease of movement in the garment during the activity. The type of activity and garment type will have an impact on the design of the pattern grading system. <\/span><\/p>\nThe core consumer of each of these garments is different, therefore consider sizing each of these slightly differently to meet the demands of each consumer. <\/span><\/p>\nThrough the use of a single size system (eg. 8, 10, 12,..) the fitting will be more comfortable. It would also allow the customer to move down the range of sizes as physical fitness increases. <\/span><\/p>\nThis results in a customer who, encouraged by the size change, is more likely to complete the purchase, compared to a dual size system (eg. S, M, L).<\/span><\/p>\nPlus Size<\/h4>\n
A plus size in the UK is considered to be above a UK size 18. This may vary in other countries. <\/span><\/p>\nOne of the most important things to consider when grading for the plus size market is, what type of body shape will the client be. There is much greater variety in plus size figures. <\/span><\/p>\nThere are also many opportunities for expansion in this market sector as different lines can target more niche body shapes such as plus size tall garments. <\/span><\/p>\nIf you are planning to extend a previously established line above this threshold, create an additional base size pattern in order to account for the different allowances needed in various parts of the garment. Special attention needs to be paid to the measurements of the armhole, shoulder length, across back, bust waist and hips ratio.<\/span><\/p>\nIf you are starting a new line devoted purely to plus size clothing, create a base size pattern in sizes 18 or 22. This would adhere to the standard grade rules.<\/span><\/p>\nMaternity Wear<\/h4>\n
For maternity clothing, sizing follows the regular UK size chart: 6, 8, 10, 12,. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nIt is then defined further by trimester or month of pregnancy. <\/span><\/p>\nThe base pattern is typically aimed at a woman in the second to the third trimester, like regular clothing can fit many women during their first trimester. <\/span><\/p>\nTrousers are sized using a waist size (26, 28, 30, etc.) and have an allowance for the extra growth in the stomach and additional areas in the base size pattern. <\/span><\/p>\nBespoke grading is specifically useful in this market as women\u2019s bodies can change in different ways during pregnancy. <\/span><\/p>\nTargeting a specific niche could be particularly profitable, if done successfully.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\nChildren’s Wear<\/span><\/h4>\nFor children\u2019s wear, age should be used for sizing increments instead of height, as market research suggests that height is confusing for consumers. Children\u2019s wear can either be graded as single sizes or dual sizes; this will be determined by the type of garment and market sector. The age group range can be broken into babywear (0-2), kidswear (3-11), or teen wear (12-16), will then be determined. As you cross over into an older sector, an additional base size pattern is recommended due to differences in growth between genders.<\/span><\/p>\nBespoke grading is commonly used in childrenswear as it is more location-targeted than other market types and garments will be sized differently in the UK compared to European or US standards.<\/span><\/p>\nIt is usual to employ the services of a pattern grading company to create your grades. However, if you were exploring the grading method for pleasure or study, I would suggest the following course of action:<\/span><\/p>\n\n- Create or purchase a simple pattern;<\/span><\/li>\n
- Select one or two body measurement charts, depending on your target audience’s age range and body shape;<\/span><\/li>\n
- The chart for high-street fashion garments is referred to when creating clothes for a youthful and athletic figure;<\/span><\/li>\n
- The increments between the sizes are even;<\/span><\/li>\n
- The Standard Body Measurements Chart is for more shapely women, and the increments are 4cm and 6cm, to allow for curves.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Creating pattern for garments is exciting, but the art of pattern grading is a skill not many posses. Yet the mass market relies on it for scale. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":50,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3923],"tags":[4145,4086,4748],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fashioninsiders.co\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1148"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fashioninsiders.co\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fashioninsiders.co\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashioninsiders.co\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/50"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashioninsiders.co\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1148"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/fashioninsiders.co\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1148\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fashioninsiders.co\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1148"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashioninsiders.co\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1148"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashioninsiders.co\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1148"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}